Nakasendō Soba

I have been walking the old Nakasendō road this year, trying to catch up to my old walking group, which has been difficult as I have been busy and away from Tokyo for much of the past few months. But I finally made it to Karuizawa, a hike that included climbing over the Usui Pass, an elevation gain of some 700 meters through a forest full of bears. We did not see any bears, but they had […]

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Nikkō

As part of my great endeavor to walk all of the five highways of old Japan (the go kaidō, or 五街道), this summer a friend and I set out to walk the shortest of the five, the old Nikkō Kaidō from Nihonbaashi to Nikkō and its main attraction, the Tōshōgū, the mausoleum honoring the first shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu. The distance for this journey is not too great, only around 140 km. Walking an average of around 30 […]

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