Food in the Time of Coronavirus (in Japan)
With a nod to Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s novel Love in the Time of Cholera.
Futomaki Sushi
Recently, during the time of coronavirus, a lot of local, Nihonbashi sushi shops have been offering take out sushi. There is nothing unusual in that, as many sushi shops will deliver to homes and businesses any time. What is remarkable lately is that at least four local sushi shops—Sushi Sugita (Kakigarachō), Sushi Kimura, Takagakino Sushi (both also Kakigarachō), and Sushi dokoro Zen (Kodenmachō)—are selling expensive futomakizusihi and chirashizushi for takeout. In the case of Sugita and Kimura, the rolls go for ¥5,000 and are by reservation only (Sushi Zen’s are only ¥3,000). Another non-sushi restaurant, Sumibiyaki Tojima in Nihonbashi Tomizawachō, has futomaki loaded with honmaguro and not much else for only ¥3,500 as well as chirashi sushi.
Ordinarily, futomaki sushi is not usually eaten, let alone made by high end sushi shops. The exception is Setsubun, the day before the first day of spring according to the traditional lunar calendar, February 2 or 3, depending on the year. And while futomaki sushi has been popular in the Kansai region for a long time, it has only recently been so in the Kanto (Tokyo) area, sine 1990 or so. Setsubum futomaki sushi normally is made with rice and seven ingredients wrapped in nori, the number of ingredients, seven, linked to the Seven Gods of Good Fortune. It is supposed to be eaten by one person in one continuous motion while facing towards the year’s lucky direction.
A more common, and older ritual associated with Setsubun is mamemaki, bean scattering or throwing, a ritual where the head of the household tosses roasted soybeans out of ones’ home’s doors and windows while chanting “Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!” (“Demons out. Luck in!”), the goal being to assure good luck in the coming year by driving out the old demons.
Was there a concious decision by my local sushi shops to start making and selling takeout futomaki sushi as a way to drive out the coronavirus? Who knows. Was it just an easy way to serve customers easy to carry takeout sushi while keeping chefs busy? Probably. Whatever the reason, it has been a fun and delicious way to support some local businesses. My wife and I have eaten Sugita takeout sushi the past two Thursdays, first his nama-chirashi, then last week a futomaki. Tomorrow it will be the regular chirashi, the only thing available lately we have not yet eaten. And I have a feeling tomorrow will be the last day for takeout as the restaurant will probably reopen for sit down dining soon. High end takeout sushi was fun while it lasted. But it is not something that will be missed.